What I Learnt Designing for Vegan Bag Brands

Over the last five years, the rise of “vegan” leather manufacturers has been impossible to ignore. But something interesting has happened: the term vegan doesn’t carry the same cachet it once did.

Why? Because “vegan” has often been used as a feel-good tagline for materials like polyurethane (PU), marketed to a new, eco-conscious audience. Even plant-based leathers—made from apples, corn, cactus, or mycelium—often require PU to retain their leather-like qualities.

But the game is changing.

In recent years, next-generation leathers have stepped into the spotlight, led by groundbreaking material suppliers like Nature’s Fynd, Uncaged, Modern Synthesis, and NFW. Shoutout to brands like GANNI, who are driving innovation through their Fabrics of the Future initiative

These bio-based materials are on a mission: to combine sustainability, innovative ingredients, and high-performance design, creating materials that balance the aesthetics and functionality of traditional leather.

So, What’s the Catch?

Leather craftsmanship is an ancient art, refined over centuries. Many artisans have inherited their skills through generations, working in factories where tradition runs deep.

Now, imagine asking these same artisans to work with entirely new materials that require extra care, trial, and—let’s be honest—a lot of patience. It’s a tall order for suppliers, especially when no one wants to shoulder the blame if things don’t go as planned.

As an accessories designer working with vegan bag brands, I’ve experienced these challenges firsthand.

Simple techniques like edge painting or skiving (thinning the material) can become complex puzzles with bio-based alternatives. And that gorgeous ageing effect you get with leather? It doesn’t quite translate.

You have to rethink construction, run endless trials, and sometimes face the dreaded client question: “Why isn’t this working?”

So, How Do We Make This Work?

Here’s the thing: these brands are the heart of the leather industry’s future. They care deeply about innovation, craftsmanship, sustainability, and pushing design boundaries.

They’re clearing hurdles, pouring time and resources into development, and learning through trial and error—all while spending just as much (if not more) on bio-based leathers as traditional leather.

But here’s where we come in.

Our buying habits are shifting. Consumers are rallying behind smaller businesses that take the time to care—brands that prioritise sustainability and innovation over shortcuts.

I hope we continue to educate ourselves about vegan brands and the incredible effort behind them. With our support, these pioneering materials can keep evolving, bridging the gap between quality, sustainability, and design.

It’s not a perfect process, but it’s a meaningful one. And isn’t that what we’re all striving for?

What are your thoughts on the future of plant based materials?